Mpenzi Bernadette – Jacket

This post is dedicated to the Bernadette jacket pattern from République du Chiffon.

And yet, this jacket didn’t appeal to me at first. It was only when I saw the quilted version by Jolies bobines that I was smitten. I absolutely wanted to make it, and it was perfect timing! Indeed, I’ve been wondering for a while about the use of Wax fabric, which I find a bit neglected, yet this fabric, described by some as “psychedelic,” can bring a lot of character to a simple outfit. Techniques used for other fabrics, such as quilting, exist notably in West Africa but for making bags and pouches. However, the use of this technique for clothing is still rarely seen (is it because of the heat?).

So instead of accumulating questions, I told myself, let’s go for it! The only problem is, I really like Wax fabric, but I’m not very sure how it suits my complexion or my style. However, one thing I was very sure of is that Stéphanie absolutely loves Wax. Plus, her birthday was approaching… In short, all systems were go!

Regarding the making: Patience = Quilting. All the quilting techniques I came across recommended quilting the entire fabric before cutting the pieces, which I just couldn’t imagine doing. So I decided to cut my pieces (cut 1 fabric, 1 lining, 1 batting, for each piece) then quilt piece by piece before starting to assemble them.

For this pattern, I decided to make the back in a single piece (contrary to Geraldine from RDC’s instructions, who suggests cutting 2 pieces), but I have a slight issue with the back of the jacket, which I find a bit… odd. Otherwise, I used bias tape for the neckline and sleeves, because I find it charming that the quilting lines are also visible on the inside (as you can see in the images). These are the only modifications I made. However, other versions will follow, including one with red/burgundy piping. To be continued…

________________________________

[ENGLISH]

The pattern used here is the Bernadette jacket pattern from République du Chiffon.

[Image]

Believe it or not, this pattern did not attract me at all at the beginning. It is only when I saw the quilted version of Jolies bobines that bells started ringing in my head. I really wanted to make it and it was the right moment, especially as I was asking myself many questions regarding the usage of African fabrics. I truly believe that African fabrics have not been explored enough, especially as these fabrics can bring character to ones attire. I also think that techniques used for occidental fabrics such as quilting, have not been experimented enough on African prints. Quilting with African prints does exist especially in West African countries such as Senegal, Mali and Burkina Faso, on items like bags and purses. However quilting for clothing seems to be inexistent (because of the heat??).

Therefore, instead of accumulating many questions, I just told myself: “Let’s give it a try!”. I like African fabrics, but I’m not really sure of the way the fabric suits me. However, I am very sure that my friend Stephanie will be more than glad to own a new item in this fabric. In addition her birthday was near… so off I went!!

Regarding the realization, Quilting=Patience. All quilting techniques I came across recommended to quilt the entire fabric before cutting out the different pieces. I told myself “sorry but I do not really picture myself doing this”. I decided to just cut all pieces (cutting 3 times for one piece: 1 quilt, 1 main fabric, 1 lining), and quilt each piece, before sewing all pieces of the garment together.

For this garment, I decided to cut the back on the fold (Geraldine -RDC recommends to sew the back in two pieces) I just have a problem with the back of the garment… It looks a little weird. I also used bias instead of piping as I wanted the quilt to also be seen on the inside of the jacket. But I totally agree that Piping turns out really nice on the outside. However no worries, different versions will follow, especially one that I have started to work on with a red/wine piping. To be continued…