I think this project is the challenge of the year. A SUIT!
And yet, when RDC released its AW 2015–2016 collection, the Françoise jacket, it didn’t really speak to me. Over time, though, I started to develop a real soft spot for the tailored style, notably worn by Christine and the Queens. Worn in a boyish style for a smart look, or dressed down with a pair of Stan Smiths. Always with a cotton T-shirt underneath (to avoid the overly “Nani” vibe with a shirt), I love this look as much for its simplicity as for the style it brings. So, as a keen amateur sewist, it was time to FIND A PATTERN! But not just any pattern! A pattern that would give me lots of explanations, with drawings to understand that collar. So without hesitation, I turned to RDC’s Françoise jacket.
After carefully choosing a fabric (here, 100% wool that’s similar to flannel), I took my time to make this set, really going step by step.
My thoughts and feedback…
– A pattern that’s very well explained in the booklet, plus the step-by-step available online.
– Since I felt tight in the shoulders on one of the Johanna shirts I made in size 36 (my shoulders are a bit broad), I didn’t hesitate to cut my jacket in size 38.
– For a flawless result, press AFTER EVERY SEAM!
– The front button placket: I read on social media that people who made the pattern couldn’t close the jacket with a double-breasted fastening like in the original model. That wasn’t a problem for me because, to begin with, I really wanted a men’s jacket. So for once, no frills!
– I didn’t hesitate to look up tailoring fabric-prep techniques online, and I learned so much! For example, using sleeve head roll for finishing the sleeves.
– Choose a good-quality fabric, because spending a lot of time for a result that doesn’t live up to your work is no fun.
– Also pay attention to your choice of interfacing. Choose one that’s suitable for your fabric. I used this one designed for sewing jackets, suits and coats. I really like this interfacing.
For the trousers, I simply used a Burda pattern (which I’ll never use again, by the way!). I cut it a bit too short at the feet and had to make lots of adjustments.
So that’s it for my Françoise jacket. I hope you enjoyed this pattern, as well as the version I made.
This is definitely the challenge of the year! Sewing a suit!
When RDC edited this pattern for the AW 2015-2016 edition I was not that attracted to the Françoise pattern. However as time went by I was getting more and more interested in this style that could be worn chic as well as casual chic. Pairing it with a pair of derbies for a smart look, and with a pair of Stan Smith for a chic street style. And as simple as this look promises to be, you can wear it with a simple Tshirt underneath.
So as a sewer I just decided to find a pattern for this, but a pattern with a step by step explanation. Françoise Pattern was the one.
I found this Hermes fabric at sacrées coupons in Paris, and just grabbed it because: the final results also depends on the quality of fabric that is used.
My impressions and feedback…
– A Very well explained pattern. If you do not get it, follow the step by step pictures on the website.
– I felt a bit tight at my shoulders using a previous Shirt pattern with size 36 because i have wide shoulders, so I just went for size 38 and I’m glad I did (don’t want to feel tight in this after all this work!)
– For a perfect result iron at EVERY SINGLE STEP.
– The original pattern has two rows of boutons at the front. I have read many people complaining about the fact that they are not able to close the front with the two button rows. This was not that big of an issue for me as I initially did not plan to add this double row. I wanted a masculine style all together.
– I also took time to read on Internet for a few techniques of tailoring. Very interesting!
– Use an appropriate interfacing fabric. I used this one suitable for jersey and wool fabrics.
The pants pattern is A classic Burda pattern. Will not bebralking that much about it here as i have the impressions that there are a few mistakes on this Burda pattern.
That is it for the post of the day. I hope you liked it and found the recommendations useful.
