{"id":13104,"date":"2016-05-11T05:56:08","date_gmt":"2016-05-11T03:56:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/the-mens-jacket\/"},"modified":"2016-05-11T05:56:08","modified_gmt":"2016-05-11T03:56:08","slug":"the-mens-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/the-mens-jacket\/","title":{"rendered":"THE men&#8217;s jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I\u2019m having a few issues with my blog platform at the moment, which means you\u2019re receiving my drafts. I\u2019m really sorry about that and I apologize. I\u2019ll try to fix it quickly, but in the meantime, here\u2019s this week\u2019s post!  <\/p>\n<p>This week\u2019s project is probably the craziest one I\u2019ve done so far (even more challenging than the Ikea armchair, I think&#8230;). This post is fairly long, but I encourage you to read it to the end, because I\u2019m going to try to, how can I put it&#8230; let you into my brain, so you have everything you need to understand how I experienced this project, and how I went about finding\/learning all the skills needed to see it through. <\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ll start right away by telling you clearly that, for this project, every part of my body was called upon: my guts, my five senses, all my nerve cells, my nerves, my arteries, and everything else. Honestly, my whole self was on edge for two weeks. Two weeks when every evening I\u2019d come home from work like a madwoman, throw myself at the jacket and make progress for at least two hours before going to bed; two weeks when I completely stepped out of my comfort zone. I\u2019m telling you, girls: since I started this project, I slept little, I was stressed, totally consumed by it, glued to my sewing machine. I was buried in YouTube, binge-watching tutorials on my lunch break\u2014especially the one on attaching the lining to the back vent&#8230; I didn\u2019t want to drink, eat, or talk until I\u2019d figured it out&#8230; Basically, the start of a real madness! But I want to point out that I was the one putting this pressure on myself. And for good reason: I was paying off a big debt. A real debt, because for years he\u2019d say:<br \/>\n&#8211; &#8220;You\u2019ve never sewn anything for me.&#8221;<br \/>\nAnd to shut him up, I\u2019d reply:<br \/>\n&#8211; &#8220;You\u2019ll see\u2014when I make you something, it\u2019ll be REALLY something!&#8221;<br \/>\nSo yes, this jacket, even though it was still just a concept, stirred up strong emotions on both sides. But to be honest, if I\u2019d been holding back on this project until now, it\u2019s because technically I didn\u2019t feel ready at all.          <\/p>\n<p><strong>Let\u2019s talk technique&#8230;<\/strong><br \/>\nSewing is a set of techniques that, when combined, results in a beautiful garment if\u2014and only if\u2014those techniques are known and mastered. So the fewer techniques involved, the easier\/more beginner-friendly the project. Likewise, the more techniques, the more difficult the project is considered. That\u2019s exactly the case with this jacket. If this pattern had been a <a href=\"http:\/\/republiqueduchiffon.com\/fr\/\">R\u00e9publique du Chiffon<\/a> or an <a href=\"http:\/\/aimecommemarie.bigcartel.com\">Aime comme Marie<\/a> (to name just those), I would have jumped in without thinking\u2014blindfolded, hands tied, and with my fingers up my nose. But here we\u2019re talking Burda&#8230; To be honest, I didn\u2019t even try to read or understand the instructions provided in the magazine. What I did do, however, was first try the Fran\u00e7oise jacket from RDC, which I made <a href=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/2016\/03\/30\/un-tailleur-sachant-tailler\/\">here<\/a> as a suit set. I knew that by making it I\u2019d better understand the logic of preparing the pieces as well as assembling a tailored-style jacket. However, the techniques I was missing were mainly attaching the lining to the back vent, making the sleeve vents, and joining those to the lining as well. Otherwise, if I try to recap the different techniques I used for this jacket, here\u2019s the list of the 5 useful techniques, along with the corresponding tutorials (some are in English but the pictures speak for themselves):          <\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Making a tailored jacket, especially the tailored collar<\/strong> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/republiqueduchiffon.com\/journal\/2015\/12\/07\/coudre-francoise-pas-a-pas\/\">The step-by-step for the Fran\u00e7oise jacket<\/a>. Take your time with step 1 (applying the fusible interfacing). To line the patch pockets properly, I used the explanation from the <a href=\"http:\/\/republiqueduchiffon.com\/fr\/patrons-pdf\/40-manteau-gerard.html\">G\u00e9rard coat<\/a>, but I cut the pocket lining on the bias (both are RDC patterns).  <\/li>\n<li><strong>Making welt pockets<\/strong> <strong>and &#8220;paysanne&#8221; pockets<\/strong> &#8211; Still using the tutorial from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=6MOuOLkLqQM\">LastReelCinema&#8217;s channel<\/a>, and if you want to make a version with a flap, watch the video by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=KwrxOZd_3bg\">Diane Deziel<\/a> (I always combine the two, because Diane\u2019s method seems even more pro in terms of finishes).<\/li>\n<li><strong>Assembling the lining<\/strong> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/republiqueduchiffon.com\/journal\/2014\/05\/08\/coudre-veste-michelle-pas-pas\/\">The step-by-step for the Michelle jacket<\/a> (RDC pattern)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Attaching the lining to the back jacket vent<\/strong> &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=WJ2oBGnN0hI\">QUTFashionStudio<\/a><\/li>\n<li><strong>Making sleeve vents<\/strong> &#8211; with the video by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=_Q_FjLJIRTc\">QUTFashionStudio<\/a><\/li>\n<li><strong>Setting in sleeves with sleeve heads and shoulder pads<\/strong> &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/stiff-collar.com\/2011\/05\/16\/cigarette-versus-camicia\/\">stiff-collar.com <\/a> <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I think that if you\u2019re more or less OK with these techniques, the jacket will go through your machine like a dream!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2760\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image12.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"><\/p>\n<p><strong>Fabric and pattern<\/strong><br \/>\nThe pattern for this jacket is Burda #138 from 02\/2016, in size 48. We may criticize Burda, but we always come back to it, don\u2019t we? This magazine really is an inexhaustible well for creative, daring souls. The thing with Burda is that you can almost always find a pattern you can adapt to any project\u2014but I\u2019ll come back to that in a later post. As for the jacket\u2019s cut, nothing to complain about. Just that next time, if I change anything, it\u2019ll be at the sleeve hems: I\u2019d narrow them a bit, but that\u2019s just my personal taste. For sleeve length, I\u2019d advise you to measure the wearer\u2019s arms to adjust the sleeve length (better to cut too long than too short. On men, short sleeves are unforgiving). The pattern didn\u2019t include a full lining, so I traced the lining based on the jacket pattern itself. As for the fabric, I found a 3 m piece at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.sacrescoupons.fr\">Sacr\u00e9s Coupons<\/a>: a beautiful wool blended with cotton, with a heathered effect. A lovely mix of fibers, ideal for spring.          <\/p>\n<p><strong>Those little details that make all the difference&#8230;<\/strong><br \/>\nWhen I say those little details that make all the difference, I\u2019m thinking in particular of the following elements:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Choosing a quality fabric. Even if I like the color, it\u2019s always the fiber content that decides. Here we have 60% wool, 30% cotton, 10% cashmere.  <\/li>\n<li>Pressing systematically after EVERY seam. I first press the seam I\u2019ve just sewn to set it, then I open the seam allowances and press again, this time right along the seam. <\/li>\n<li>Decorative buttonholes made in a mustard yellow that echoes the lining.<\/li>\n<li>Elbow patches made from a template downloaded for free <a href=\"http:\/\/www.unexpectedelegance.com\/easy-way-add-elbow-patches-wardrobe\/\">here<\/a>, but I increased the size. I used the wrong side of the main fabric for the elbow patches \ud83d\ude42 (often you don\u2019t have to look far). <\/li>\n<li>For men tall or short, don\u2019t hesitate to use your fabric scraps to make accessories such as scarves, neckerchiefs, pocket squares, etc.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>So, will I do it again? YES\u2014with great pleasure, but with less stress \ud83d\ude09 <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2771\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image19.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2762\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image14.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2770\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image18.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2763\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image15.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2764\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image16.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2748\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image2.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2752\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image6.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"735\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2772\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image20.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"327\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2754\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image8.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"327\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2756\" src=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10.jpeg\" alt=\"image\" width=\"490\" height=\"754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-1000x1538.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-195x300.jpeg 195w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-666x1024.jpeg 666w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-768x1181.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-999x1536.jpeg 999w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-1332x2048.jpeg 1332w, https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image10-1200x1845.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 490px) 100vw, 490px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I hope you\u2019ll find this post useful\u2014feel free to share your thoughts. <a href=\"http:\/\/bmade.canalblog.com\/archives\/2016\/04\/06\/33622327.html\">Bee mad<\/a>e also made this jacket with a &#8220;So British&#8221; vibe for her husband. I\u2019m sure you\u2019ll like it too. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I\u2019m having a few issues with my blog platform at the moment, which means you\u2019re receiving my drafts. I\u2019m really sorry about that and I apologize. I\u2019ll try to fix it quickly, but in the meantime, here\u2019s this week\u2019s post! This week\u2019s project is probably the craziest one I\u2019ve done so far (even more challenging [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13114,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[238],"tags":[318],"class_list":["post-13104","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-my-handmade-wardrobe","tag-mens-sewing"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/image19-scaled.jpeg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13104","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13104"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13104\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13114"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13104"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13104"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lapetitemaisoncouture.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13104"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}